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The beautiful city of Turin -
Recommended tours -
Esoteric tours -
Parks in Turin area -
Royal residences -
Canavese castles -
Alps strongholds -
Via Francigena -
contacts
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THE
DIGNIFIED CENTRE AND THE ROMAN CITY The
starting point is Piazza Castello, considered the heart of the city in the past,
as it is in the present. The square, constructed at the end of the XV C. by Ascanio
Vitozzi, is almost completely surrounded by arched walkways, according to the
plan outlined by King Charles Emanuel I. Palazzo Madama, isolated in the centre
of the square, is the most symbolic testimony to the history of the city; it today
appears as a medieval structure, and a baroque facade created by Filippo Juvarra
(1718-1721), that faces onto Via Garibaldi. Also incorporated into the building
is the remainder of the Porta Pretoria, one of the ancient gates to the city of
Augusta Taurinorum, the Roman colony founded by Emperor Augustus in 28 BC. The
building is the headquarters of the Museo Civico di Arte Antica, presently closed
for restoration; it contains a rich collection of numerous sculptures, paintings,
ceramics, glass, enamel, ivory, furniture and fittings, prints and examples of
ancient bookbinding. Across the square, we come upon the gateway and railings
of Pelagio Palagi (1835), surmounted by the Dioscuri statues that mark the entrance
to Piazzetta Reale (the Royal Square).
Il Palazzo Reale was the official residence of the Kings of Sardinia until 1859,
and then that of Victor Emanuel II, who was King of Italy until 1865. The present
facade was begun in 1658 by Carlo Morello but, between the XVII and XIX centuries,
many diverse craftsmen worked to enlarge and renovate the palace. On the first
floor, it is possible to visit the royal apartments which document the historical
evolution of the domestic tastes of the Savoy Sovereigns.
Beyond the courtyard, are the Giardini Reali, designed by André le Notre, a pleasant
green oasis at the heart of the city. Returning towards Piazza Castello and heading
left, we arrive at the Biblioteca Reale (Piazza Castello, 191), established by
King Charles Albert in 1831. It holds 185,000 volumes, 4,300 manuscripts, engravings
and leather bound books, and 2,000 drawings, among which is the celebrated collection
of sketches by Leonardo da Vinci, including the "Codice sul Volo degli Uccelli"
and the famous "Autoritratto a sanguigna". Adjacent
to the library is the Armeria Reale, the access to which is by an imposing staircase,
designed by Benedetto Alfieri (1740). The collection of weapons and armoury is
one of the richest in Europe. Walking along the long wing of the ex secretaries
of State, we arrive first at the Archivio di Stato (Piazza Castello, 209), the
work of Filippo Juvarra, then the Teatro Regio (Piazza Castello, 215), whose foyer
is closed by railings realised by the sculptor Umberto Mastroianni. The Alfieri
building (1740) was completely destroyed by fire in 1930, and the new theatre,
with one facade in glass and metal, designed by Carlo Mollino and Marcello Zavellani
Rossi, was inaugurated in 1973. Taking Via Verdi, ancient area of the Zecca (Mint),
we find the old Cavallerizza Reale. This area, once the royal stables, is presently
under redevelopment, and is partially used to host artistic events. Return to
Piazza Castello to visit the Church of San Lorenzo, designed by Guarino Guarini,
which is of notable architectural value. This religious building, devoid of a
church facade and parvis, is remarkable for its dome (completed in 1680), an elegant
play on volume and form. The church was dedicated to St. Lorenzo, following a
vow made in silent prayer to the Saint by the Duke of Savoy Emanuele Filiberto,
on the occasion of the battle of San Quintino (10 August, 1557). On its arrival
from Chambéry, the Holy Shroud was kept in the oratory, in front of the entrance,
whilst it waited to be safely placed in the Cathedral Chapel, which was specifically
designed for this purpose by Guarini.
The
itinerary continues with a visit to the Duomo (Cathedral), dedicated to St. John
the Baptist, the patron saint of Turin. Constructed between 1491 and 1498, to
a design by the Tuscan architect Meo del Caprina, it is the only example of Renaissance
architecture in the city. Inside the Cathedral, in the right aisle, one must stop
and pause at the polyptych of the Compagnia dei Calzolai (a dedication to the
Company of Shoemakers), by Giovanni Sapanzotti and Defendente Ferrari. Outside,
the bell-tower of St. Andrew, isolated on the left of the Cathedral, is in Romanesque
style, with a baroque cusp added by Filippo Juvarra in about 1720. Flanking the
presbytery, a flight of steps in black marble ascends to the Cappella della Sindone
(1668-1694): the splendid dome over the Cathedral is a real masterpiece of baroque
architecture, that is expressed in the lines and ribbing of the internal structure.
Having suffered extensive damage by fire on 11 April, 1997, the Chapel is at present
closed to the public. From the Cathedral Square (Piazza San Giovanni), we can
see a somewhat heterogeneous sight in the open space in front of us, where modern
1960s buildings, which house municipal offices, stand alongside the remains of
the ancient Roman city. The best conserved monument of the ancient Augusta Taurinorum
is the Porta Palatina, the Roman gateway dating back to the first century AD.
It has two 16-sided towers, 30 metres in height, linked by a two-storey middle
section with windows, and having four arched passageways for the pedestrians and
carriages of ancient times. On the Via XX Settembre side, along the most recent
wing of the Palazzo Reale, is the Teatro Romano, the remains of the ancient Roman
amphitheatre, that can only be seen through the railings. The theatre, also dating
back to the first century AD, is 120 metres in diameter, and has the cavea facing
north with a central corridor that connects the orchestra area with the outside.
The walk through Turin's past memories could end with the Museo di Antichità.
The museum was constructed on the site of the Palazzo Reale conservatories and
in a new modern pavilion: it preserves archaeological finds from prehistoric times
through to late Roman times and the barbarian age.
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