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THE DIGNIFIED CENTRE AND THE ROMAN CITY

roman turinThe starting point is Piazza Castello, considered the heart of the city in the past, as it is in the present. The square, constructed at the end of the XV C. by Ascanio Vitozzi, is almost completely surrounded by arched walkways, according to the plan outlined by King Charles Emanuel I. Palazzo Madama, isolated in the centre of the square, is the most symbolic testimony to the history of the city; it today appears as a medieval structure, and a baroque facade created by Filippo Juvarra (1718-1721), that faces onto Via Garibaldi. Also incorporated into the building is the remainder of the Porta Pretoria, one of the ancient gates to the city of Augusta Taurinorum, the Roman colony founded by Emperor Augustus in 28 BC. The building is the headquarters of the Museo Civico di Arte Antica, presently closed for restoration; it contains a rich collection of numerous sculptures, paintings, ceramics, glass, enamel, ivory, furniture and fittings, prints and examples of ancient bookbinding. Across the square, we come upon the gateway and railings of Pelagio Palagi (1835), surmounted by the Dioscuri statues that mark the entrance to Piazzetta Reale (the Royal Square).

Il Palazzo Reale was the official residence of the Kings of Sardinia until 1859, and then that of Victor Emanuel II, who was King of Italy until 1865. The present facade was begun in 1658 by Carlo Morello but, between the XVII and XIX centuries, many diverse craftsmen worked to enlarge and renovate the palace. On the first floor, it is possible to visit the royal apartments which document the historical evolution of the domestic tastes of the Savoy Sovereigns.royal palace turin Beyond the courtyard, are the Giardini Reali, designed by André le Notre, a pleasant green oasis at the heart of the city. Returning towards Piazza Castello and heading left, we arrive at the Biblioteca Reale (Piazza Castello, 191), established by King Charles Albert in 1831. It holds 185,000 volumes, 4,300 manuscripts, engravings and leather bound books, and 2,000 drawings, among which is the celebrated collection of sketches by Leonardo da Vinci, including the "Codice sul Volo degli Uccelli" and the famous "Autoritratto a sanguigna".

Adjacent to the library is the Armeria Reale, the access to which is by an imposing staircase, designed by Benedetto Alfieri (1740). The collection of weapons and armoury is one of the richest in Europe. Walking along the long wing of the ex secretaries of State, we arrive first at the Archivio di Stato (Piazza Castello, 209), the work of Filippo Juvarra, then the Teatro Regio (Piazza Castello, 215), whose foyer is closed by railings realised by the sculptor Umberto Mastroianni. The Alfieri building (1740) was completely destroyed by fire in 1930, and the new theatre, with one facade in glass and metal, designed by Carlo Mollino and Marcello Zavellani Rossi, was inaugurated in 1973. Taking Via Verdi, ancient area of the Zecca (Mint), we find the old Cavallerizza Reale. This area, once the royal stables, is presently under redevelopment, and is partially used to host artistic events. Return to Piazza Castello to visit the Church of San Lorenzo, designed by Guarino Guarini, which is of notable architectural value. This religious building, devoid of a church facade and parvis, is remarkable for its dome (completed in 1680), an elegant play on volume and form. The church was dedicated to St. Lorenzo, following a vow made in silent prayer to the Saint by the Duke of Savoy Emanuele Filiberto, on the occasion of the battle of San Quintino (10 August, 1557). On its arrival from Chambéry, the Holy Shroud was kept in the oratory, in front of the entrance, whilst it waited to be safely placed in the Cathedral Chapel, which was specifically designed for this purpose by Guarini.

turin domeThe itinerary continues with a visit to the Duomo (Cathedral), dedicated to St. John the Baptist, the patron saint of Turin. Constructed between 1491 and 1498, to a design by the Tuscan architect Meo del Caprina, it is the only example of Renaissance architecture in the city. Inside the Cathedral, in the right aisle, one must stop and pause at the polyptych of the Compagnia dei Calzolai (a dedication to the Company of Shoemakers), by Giovanni Sapanzotti and Defendente Ferrari. Outside, the bell-tower of St. Andrew, isolated on the left of the Cathedral, is in Romanesque style, with a baroque cusp added by Filippo Juvarra in about 1720. Flanking the presbytery, a flight of steps in black marble ascends to the Cappella della Sindone (1668-1694): the splendid dome over the Cathedral is a real masterpiece of baroque architecture, that is expressed in the lines and ribbing of the internal structure. Having suffered extensive damage by fire on 11 April, 1997, the Chapel is at present closed to the public. From the Cathedral Square (Piazza San Giovanni), we can see a somewhat heterogeneous sight in the open space in front of us, where modern 1960s buildings, which house municipal offices, stand alongside the remains of the ancient Roman city. The best conserved monument of the ancient Augusta Taurinorum is the Porta Palatina, the Roman gateway dating back to the first century AD. It has two 16-sided towers, 30 metres in height, linked by a two-storey middle section with windows, and having four arched passageways for the pedestrians and carriages of ancient times. On the Via XX Settembre side, along the most recent wing of the Palazzo Reale, is the Teatro Romano, the remains of the ancient Roman amphitheatre, that can only be seen through the railings. The theatre, also dating back to the first century AD, is 120 metres in diameter, and has the cavea facing north with a central corridor that connects the orchestra area with the outside. The walk through Turin's past memories could end with the Museo di Antichità. The museum was constructed on the site of the Palazzo Reale conservatories and in a new modern pavilion: it preserves archaeological finds from prehistoric times through to late Roman times and the barbarian age.

 

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